Gorgeous images and thoughts from Shikoku! It reminds me how Takamatsu is one of my favorite cities in the world. As a neighboring provincial capital, I guess it's probably a somewhat similar vibe. It is loved for many of the same reasons you liked Matsuyama. It just feels like a 'right sized' city, everything you need, alive but slower than the big cities, and not overcrowded.
Really intend to do the Shimanami Kaido some day. It was on my list when we were staying as artists for some months in Setouchi Triennale a long time ago (as was the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage). But we were too busy-minded to take time for it then.
Hi Patrick, thank you for your time and thoughtful comment. I always suspected that Takamatsu may be a very enjoyable city, and based on your note, I will definitely make sure to visit it. I think you would really the Shimanami Kaido right and would be a delight to see your drawings of the route!
We were just in Onomichi and Tomonoura. Tomonoura is called Tomo ‘Nyan’ ( the Japanese equivalent of ‘meow’) by the residents because there are so many cats. Our hotel had a cat hostel built to house drop ins. Everyone feeds the cats and there is cat related art work and sculpture at every turn. Miyazaki stayed there for months developing his film Ponyo and used the town as inspiration for his locations. Here is link
Such a beautiful post! Thank you so much for sharing these wonderful images of Shikoku! Next time you visit the island, do come by Kamikatsu and enjoy the mountains!
I really ought to finish my own post on Shimanami. It's a lovely place and in the last few years it seems like the infrastructure to support foreign tourists has greatly expanded - I was, for example, unaware of the one-way bike rental option.
We visit at least once a year and have cycled all over many of the islands. About the one island we haven't done much on is Omishima so perhaps that will be a task for this year. Another thing we've thought about, but not done, is cycling between Imabari and Matsuyama. We've driven it and it looks quite cyclable (for us anyway) though it would certainly require planning to make sure that cafes and restaurants were still open because as you mention a fair few places that Google maps thinks are open, are no longer in business.
Anyway if you go back there's another temple on Ikuchijima that's worth visiting - the Kojoji (向上寺 ) which has a lovely pagoda. Not as spectacular as the Kosanji, but a lot older
I stayed in the same region and did day walks, but there were a number of minshuku-type accommodations along the way, in addition to privately managed camping facilities.
The thing that always strikes me, Burcu, as I read your fabulous posts, is how much your enjoyment of the country and the experiences is enhanced by the time you have spent there (and the knowledge you have gathered - I am assuming you speak Japanese well). Every post lures me in deeper and we crave a visit to see and experience Japan ourselves, the sort of Japan you see (the hiking and biking is right up our street!) … but the more I read, the more daunted I become about the language, in particular, and the traveller’s responsibility to make themselves understood and to respect the ways things are. Anyhow, another beguiling post - I would love to share it in this week’s Encouragement Files, if that’s okay?
As always, thank you for your time and thoughtful comment. I would, of course, be happy if you chose to share it. My Japanese is still not very good, though enough to engage in conversations during my walks and arrange all the logistics on the phone - I think I have been a little lazy giving it enough desk time (as my daily job requires English more than Japanese), relying on the excuse of being over 40, but I plan to make linguistic improvement the priority this year.
Thank you, Burcu. And Turkish, English and Japanese to a level that involves phone calls is inspiring. Our French is transactional at best and making the leap forward to something more conversational is testing for this 50-something old man!
In my experience, Japanese people you meet while out and about are mostly welcoming, understanding and kind - as well as interested in engaging with foreigners. Although they may not feel comfortable speaking English - especially with strangers - many Japanese understand and can speak English quite well. Japanese has a surprisingly large number of English words in its lexicon.
Japanese people also seem happy to use phone translation apps, which usually work well.
I definitely would not let your concerns deprive you of the opportunity to experience Japan. It is every bit as delightful as Burcu's beautiful word pictures paint.
Such a lovely encouragement, Tirion, thank you. Living in France and desperately trying to move our paltry offerings on from transactional to something more conversational means we hold tight to the translation app!
We are definitely focusing on Japan as a real possibility; we have a 3-month European rail adventure this year to mark my milestone birthday … so the saving starts straight after that!
In my experience Japanese people will generally work with you over language issues and smartphone translation apps are great. I haven't tried speech translation myself but I know someone who has had moderate success with it (he reported it worked maybe 75%)
A year ago I wrote this post about how to be a good tourist in Japan, although I'm pretty sure from your comment that you understand the basics
Thank you so much, Francis - duly subscribed to ‘Less Known Japan’. JoJo and I have been chatting about Japan for a while and it feels like a real possibility. We have a 3-month interrail trip planned for the Autumn, a chance to practice being travellers not tourists. I can see Japan being the subject of the post rail travel savings pots!
Autumn is a great time to visit because of all the beautiful foliage. Of course you can never predict precisely when the leaves change but generally late October / early November is a good time for spectacular colors somewhere in Japan.
Is it just me, or are national holidays an idea whose time has passed? Everything and everywhere becomes so crowded that it has sucked all the enjoyment out of it for me. I used to live in China and the lunar new year was a complete nightmare. Japan's holidays are not much better.
Why not legislate to add a mandatory sixteen extra days' paid leave to all employment contracts and allow us to choose when to take them?
My family has an annual reunion, which is great; but it's not on the same day as everyone else's family reunion, which makes getting and being there so much more enjoyable as far as I am concerned. Wouldn't the same apply to hiking trips, or any other leisure activity?
Gorgeous images and thoughts from Shikoku! It reminds me how Takamatsu is one of my favorite cities in the world. As a neighboring provincial capital, I guess it's probably a somewhat similar vibe. It is loved for many of the same reasons you liked Matsuyama. It just feels like a 'right sized' city, everything you need, alive but slower than the big cities, and not overcrowded.
Really intend to do the Shimanami Kaido some day. It was on my list when we were staying as artists for some months in Setouchi Triennale a long time ago (as was the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage). But we were too busy-minded to take time for it then.
After reading this, it's back on my list :-)
Hi Patrick, thank you for your time and thoughtful comment. I always suspected that Takamatsu may be a very enjoyable city, and based on your note, I will definitely make sure to visit it. I think you would really the Shimanami Kaido right and would be a delight to see your drawings of the route!
We were just in Onomichi and Tomonoura. Tomonoura is called Tomo ‘Nyan’ ( the Japanese equivalent of ‘meow’) by the residents because there are so many cats. Our hotel had a cat hostel built to house drop ins. Everyone feeds the cats and there is cat related art work and sculpture at every turn. Miyazaki stayed there for months developing his film Ponyo and used the town as inspiration for his locations. Here is link
https://tomonyahn.rwiths.net/r-withs/planListDetail.do?hotelNo=181102&GCode=&campID=5214639&vipCode=&f_lang=ja
Such a beautiful post! Thank you so much for sharing these wonderful images of Shikoku! Next time you visit the island, do come by Kamikatsu and enjoy the mountains!
As always, thank you. It means a lot coming from you. This trip made me realize I should visit Shikoku much more often, so I’ll definitely be back.
I really ought to finish my own post on Shimanami. It's a lovely place and in the last few years it seems like the infrastructure to support foreign tourists has greatly expanded - I was, for example, unaware of the one-way bike rental option.
We visit at least once a year and have cycled all over many of the islands. About the one island we haven't done much on is Omishima so perhaps that will be a task for this year. Another thing we've thought about, but not done, is cycling between Imabari and Matsuyama. We've driven it and it looks quite cyclable (for us anyway) though it would certainly require planning to make sure that cafes and restaurants were still open because as you mention a fair few places that Google maps thinks are open, are no longer in business.
Anyway if you go back there's another temple on Ikuchijima that's worth visiting - the Kojoji (向上寺 ) which has a lovely pagoda. Not as spectacular as the Kosanji, but a lot older
Thank you Burcu. We are frequent visitors to Japan, but you are opening new doors for us.
Thank you, Sally. I am very happy to hear it, and if you have any questions about any of these destinations, please do not hesitate.
Sounds like a beautiful walk I might want to do some day. Is it easy to find places to stay on the way?
I stayed in the same region and did day walks, but there were a number of minshuku-type accommodations along the way, in addition to privately managed camping facilities.
Thanks. Sounds like a wonderful hike.
Seems like a nice walk in Shikoku South. I have a vague idea to walk around all Shikoku, need to research…
Following your walking trends for the past year, I think you might be able find many rewarding routes in Shikoku.
The thing that always strikes me, Burcu, as I read your fabulous posts, is how much your enjoyment of the country and the experiences is enhanced by the time you have spent there (and the knowledge you have gathered - I am assuming you speak Japanese well). Every post lures me in deeper and we crave a visit to see and experience Japan ourselves, the sort of Japan you see (the hiking and biking is right up our street!) … but the more I read, the more daunted I become about the language, in particular, and the traveller’s responsibility to make themselves understood and to respect the ways things are. Anyhow, another beguiling post - I would love to share it in this week’s Encouragement Files, if that’s okay?
As always, thank you for your time and thoughtful comment. I would, of course, be happy if you chose to share it. My Japanese is still not very good, though enough to engage in conversations during my walks and arrange all the logistics on the phone - I think I have been a little lazy giving it enough desk time (as my daily job requires English more than Japanese), relying on the excuse of being over 40, but I plan to make linguistic improvement the priority this year.
Thank you, Burcu. And Turkish, English and Japanese to a level that involves phone calls is inspiring. Our French is transactional at best and making the leap forward to something more conversational is testing for this 50-something old man!
Just do it :)
In my experience, Japanese people you meet while out and about are mostly welcoming, understanding and kind - as well as interested in engaging with foreigners. Although they may not feel comfortable speaking English - especially with strangers - many Japanese understand and can speak English quite well. Japanese has a surprisingly large number of English words in its lexicon.
Japanese people also seem happy to use phone translation apps, which usually work well.
I definitely would not let your concerns deprive you of the opportunity to experience Japan. It is every bit as delightful as Burcu's beautiful word pictures paint.
Such a lovely encouragement, Tirion, thank you. Living in France and desperately trying to move our paltry offerings on from transactional to something more conversational means we hold tight to the translation app!
We are definitely focusing on Japan as a real possibility; we have a 3-month European rail adventure this year to mark my milestone birthday … so the saving starts straight after that!
More power to your elbow, kind sir!
In my experience Japanese people will generally work with you over language issues and smartphone translation apps are great. I haven't tried speech translation myself but I know someone who has had moderate success with it (he reported it worked maybe 75%)
A year ago I wrote this post about how to be a good tourist in Japan, although I'm pretty sure from your comment that you understand the basics
https://lessknownjapan.substack.com/p/being-a-good-tourist?r=7yrqz
You should definitely come visit and Shimanami is one of the better places to see non-urban Japan.
Thank you so much, Francis - duly subscribed to ‘Less Known Japan’. JoJo and I have been chatting about Japan for a while and it feels like a real possibility. We have a 3-month interrail trip planned for the Autumn, a chance to practice being travellers not tourists. I can see Japan being the subject of the post rail travel savings pots!
Autumn is a great time to visit because of all the beautiful foliage. Of course you can never predict precisely when the leaves change but generally late October / early November is a good time for spectacular colors somewhere in Japan.
Coincidentally October is JoJo’s birthday month. We’ve pencilled it into our roughly sketched life ‘plan’!
Many thanks, Francis - subscribed!
Is it just me, or are national holidays an idea whose time has passed? Everything and everywhere becomes so crowded that it has sucked all the enjoyment out of it for me. I used to live in China and the lunar new year was a complete nightmare. Japan's holidays are not much better.
Why not legislate to add a mandatory sixteen extra days' paid leave to all employment contracts and allow us to choose when to take them?
My family has an annual reunion, which is great; but it's not on the same day as everyone else's family reunion, which makes getting and being there so much more enjoyable as far as I am concerned. Wouldn't the same apply to hiking trips, or any other leisure activity?