Going South: Islands Off an Island
Letters from Japan, January 2025: islands of Kyushu—Yakushima and beyond.
Good morning,
It has been a typical January in Tokyo so far—noticeably cold but consistently sunny. We have seen at most two days of overcast skies and maybe one day of rain. It feels refreshing yet cozy, as long as the air conditioners are on.
Since the late December trip to Hokkaido, I have gladly embraced the delightfully mundane pleasures of daily life in Tokyo, which, in my case, include a 22-minute, uncrowded train ride to central Tokyo, followed by a 20-minute walk through the charming Yanaka neighborhood for a 10 a.m. start at work, and a 6 p.m. finish. There’s occasional socializing, weekends spent on various errands, some website maintenance and updates, newsletter drafting, Tokyo-focused grand plans rarely followed through, and a lot of energy—half the time in vain—spent trying to tip the scale in favor of reading in the eternal battle between screen time and book time.1
After the pleasantly slow January, February will be a bit busier, starting with a short work trip to Laos, during which my colleague and I will spend more time in the air and at airports than on the ground in Vientiane. But whether it’s for work or leisure, for two days or a month, I’m always happy to travel to Southeast Asia. The region’s distinct humidity greets you the moment you step off the plane, promising an experience—a feeling—that only Southeast Asia can deliver, and one that’s different for everyone. For me, it’s the sense that the world is an exciting place and the fleeting hope that maybe, just maybe, everything might be all right—if only for a moment. Wishful thinking, of course.
The brief visit to Laos will be followed by a much-anticipated week-long visit from my mother, which will include some Tokyo time as well as a side trip to the Kanazawa-Takayama region (the likely topic of the February edition of Letters from Japan).
The plum blossoms will then soon arrive, signaling the start of spring. The weather will gradually improve, reaching the perfect balance—not chilly anymore, but not yet hot—making it ideal for long walks and serving as my cue for travels to Kyushu, my favorite spring destination, much like Tohoku is reserved for autumn trips.
My first Kyushu outing this year will probably be at the end of February, taking advantage of the long weekend to visit Hirado Island. After visiting Nagasaki City, the Goto Islands, Amakusa, Ojika/Nozaki, Shimabara, and Unzen Onsen, all key locations in Japan's history as front-row witnesses to Japan’s first encounters with Western culture—Hirado Island, with many related sites, feels like a natural next step in this series of travels curated around that theme.
So, with a Kyushu map open on my desk, planning the Hirado trip, and eyeing Miyazaki Prefecture—which I’ve never visited—this month’s letter is about Japan’s southernmost main island, where the locals surely know how to have a good time.
With its hiking trails, lively cities, historical sites, onsen towns, and islands, Kyushu offers countless sights and more than enough reasons to keep coming back. While I originally planned to cover all my favorite Kyushu destinations in this month’s letter, that quickly proved to be a not-so-good idea—better suited for a much longer post on my website. So instead—honoring the fact that my first visit to Kyushu wasn’t to its mainland but to one of its islands—this month’s letter is dedicated to three islands off Kyushu’s coast: one rightfully known as Japan’s hiking heaven, another as the 'island of prayers,' and the third, honestly, not known for much at all, which is part of its charm.
Wishing for a rainy day—Yakushima
My first encounter with Kyushu dates back to 2018, before I moved to Japan, when I visited Yakushima—a heart-shaped island surrounded by a 100-kilometer-long ring road, located 60 kilometers off the coast of Kagoshima, the southernmost prefecture in Kyushu.
It wasn’t a love-at-first-sight kind of story, but one that began with a naively unexpected feeling of disappointment—the sight of concrete and oddly painted buildings lining the coast of Miyanoura, the island’s largest town. Little did I know then that such scenery is typical of rural Japan, where beauty doesn’t always come easily or picture-perfectly — sweeping you off your feet at first sight — unless you deliberately look for it and, in most cases, work for it.
Luckily, in the case of Yakushima, the effort required was relatively minor: a short drive out of town and up to the higher elevations, followed by a mildly demanding hike to discover the awe-striking beauty, which was reportedly the inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki’s Princess Mononoke — and the ecological uniqueness,2 which earned Yakushima the honor of becoming Japan’s first UNESCO Natural Heritage Site in 1993.3
I have since visited Yakushima two more times, each for an extended stay. While I would recommend Okinawa for swimming (though Yakushima has beaches, they don't quite compare to Okinawa's), when it comes to hiking, not much can beat Yakushima — with 90% of its land covered by forest. Despite spending months on the island, I barely scratched the surface of its hundreds of hiking trails.
Thanks to sites and hikes like the Moss Forest in Shiratani Unsuikyo—reportedly the exact location that inspired Miyazaki—Miyanoura Dake, the highest peak in Kyushu, and the Jomon Sugi, Japan’s oldest tree, estimated to be between 2,000 and 7,200 years old, Yakushima is certainly not desperate for visitors. In a country where travel decisions are often guided by landmark lists, the 10-hour Jomon Sugi trek, in particular, feels like a pilgrimage for Japanese visitors, who, I believe, can receive a completion certificate at the end of the trail.
As a stand-alone hike, the Jomon Sugi trek isn’t my favorite on the island, though the giant cedar tree is truly impressive. If you have the time, a two-day trek called the island traverse (not as intimidating, challenging, or technical as it sounds) that also covers the Jomon Sugi is a great way to explore some of Yakushima's most spectacular scenery.
The traverse route, which typically starts at the Yodagawa Trailhead (though there are other options), begins with a hike up to Miyanoura Dake. It includes an overnight stay at one of the mountain huts, followed by a descent to Jomon Sugi through one of the most intriguing, spookily beautiful, and memorable forest sections I’ve experienced. The trail offers a constantly shifting landscape, with ancient forests, intriguing rock formations like the affectionately named tofu rock, and monoliths that evoke Game of Thrones landscapes. This all takes place in the company of exceptionally shy yakushika—Yakushima deer—and far less shy island monkeys. It’s a hike I’ve done only once, but I would love to repeat it someday.
Marked as Japan’s wettest place—hence the saying “it rains 35 days a month in Yakushima”—4 you’re likely to encounter rain at least part of the way during your hike—and if you don’t, too bad. While it presents its own challenges, rain is something to wish for, as it truly elevates the experience—bringing out the vibrant green, making the moss shine, and allowing you to feel the power of an ancient forest deep in your bones.
While I didn’t fully appreciate it during my first visit, as I had very little experience with rural Japan and how desolate it could feel, another essential aspect of Yakushima that makes it special is the range of additional opportunities it offers to complement the hiking experience and help you enjoy the island. In addition to scenic ocean-side onsen where the waves mix with (very) hot spring water, rivers to kayak, atmospheric eateries, and waterfalls (some flowing into the ocean), you might even get the chance to witness a rocket launch from nearby Tanegashima Island, home to a space center — if you're lucky. During a three-day walk around the island’s 100-km ring road, I was fortunate enough to experience both a rocket launch and a volcanic eruption in real time (with no fatalities) on the nearby Kuchinoerabu Island.
Amakusa, the islands of prayers
While Yakushima is possibly the best destination for hiking enthusiasts, the Amakusa Islands, off the coast of Kumamoto Prefecture — which I, a little unfairly, tend to overlook in favor of the Goto Islands — offer many historical sites in addition to “Olle trails”.
Intriguingly nicknamed the “islands of prayers,” the Amakusa archipelago consists of two large islands5 and hundreds of smaller ones, which, along with the nearby Shimabara, were the battleground for Japan’s largest civil conflict—the Amakusa-Shimabara Rebellion (1637-1638). The revolt, led by an unlikely 16-year-old hero, Amakusa Shiro, a native of Amakusa, was started by villagers, unable to bear the demanding tax policies of the ruling clan, and later joined by Christians living in fear of persecution after their religion was banned in Japan in 1614.
The island is home to many sites linked to the rebellion, which was ultimately suppressed with the aid of the Dutch, leading to the execution of Amakusa Shiro and countless others. There are also several landmarks that highlight the islands` role as a refuge for Japan's Hidden Christians—hence the nickname “Island of Prayers,” much like the Goto Islands.
One of these locations is Sakitsu Village, which was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2018. The scenery in this picturesque fishing hamlet is dominated by the Gothic-style Sakitsu Church, with less noticeable but equally lovely buildings that perfectly complement it. While such a scene is a defining feature of many idyllic lakeside European villages, it is a rare sight in Japan.
Designed by the renowned Buddhist architect Tetsukawa Yosuke, who is responsible for some of Japan's most famous Catholic churches, Sakitsu Church is built on the site of the island's former ruler's residence. It stands on the very ground where villagers were subjected to the fumi-e test — an infamous Edo period practice that forced them to step on a stone carving of Jesus Christ or the Virgin Mary and renounce their Christianity to avoid the death penalty. Those who’ve seen Martin Scorsese’s Silence will be familiar with this grim chapter of history.
I've been to Amakusa twice, but both times for travel writing assignments with the Kyushu Tourism Office, each featuring very specific itineraries. While these trips always offer unique opportunities I wouldn’t have been able to arrange on my own and introduce me to amazing people, they also leave me wishing for a few extra days for solo exploration—just walking around with a much looser itinerary to get a better sense of the place. So, an independent trip to Amakusa is due soon.
During one of those assignment trips, I had the chance to experience one of the two “Olle courses” the island is home to with a local guide. First developed on Jeju Island, South Korea, the Olle courses are specifically designed to blend local cultural experiences with natural landscapes, with many stops along the way and mostly easy terrain, leaving plenty of energy to interact with the surroundings. Today, there are tens of these courses in Kyushu and even one in Tohoku.
The Matsushima Olle Course took us through rice fields and shrines and involved a gentle mountain climb, leading to panoramic views of the Amakusa archipelago, connected by multiple bridges. Along the course, we stopped at a local shop to pick up a croquette lunch unique to Amakusa, which we enjoyed at the spot where Amakusa Shiro once held a banquet with the villagers. It was a grimly overcast day, and the friendly chat meant more than the landscape surrounding us. On another summer trip, I was luckier with cloudless skies, which allowed my assignment partner and me to enjoy kayaking among the islands I had overlooked from above during the Matsushima Olle Course.
Another memorable experience in Amakusa was staying at Gosoku no Kutsu Ryokan, where each room features a private rotenburo, an outdoor bath. Founded by a local after years of world travels, the ryokan blends a calming natural atmosphere with intentional reminders of the island’s darker history with carefully chosen lighting and music. It was a unique accommodation experience that perfectly complemented the historical sights I explored on the island. And, of course, the Turkish carpets in their glass library might also have had something to do with my affection for the place. It is always nice to be reminded of home, especially in an unexpected place like Amakusa.
The tale of two islands, Ojika and Nozaki
While Yakushima and Amakusa offer extensive nature experiences and historically significant sites, Ojika Island in Nagasaki Prefecture takes a less ambitious approach, offering simply the chance to relax.
Home to around 2,000 residents and accessible by a highly recommended five-hour night ferry from Fukuoka, the island, with its kominka—old-style Japanese houses—dominated urbanscape, relaxes you the moment you step off the ferry and stays true to its promise during your entire stay.
With enchanting but limited “sightseeing” spots—including an old Shrine right by the sea, narrow streets featuring traditional houses and shops, a scenic road of pine trees, and many many rice fields—the accommodation experience on the island is the main draw. Visitors can rent stylishly renovated kominka — or do homestays with local families.
A few springs ago, I stayed on the island for three nights at Yanoya, run by a lovely young couple—the Hasegawas—who had renovated a hundred-year-old Japanese house using the same techniques as when it was originally built—a true story of devotion. We had breakfast and dinner together in their cozy kitchen throughout my stay. On the first night’s dinner, I contributed my share with a few kilos of uncooked fish gifted to me by a friendly local who had spent one summer in his youth traveling around Turkey. The decor of Yanoya House showed me the true potential of tatami-style rooms—something I’ve always found challenging to fully nail (not that I have a tatami room in my house, but rather in my fictional decorating sessions)—striking the perfect balance between functionality and minimalistic yet cozy design.
While Ojika’s main allure lies in its effortlessly idyllic island village vibe, its neighboring island Nozaki, just two kilometers away, offers something much more specific— a UNESCO World Heritage village, highlighted as one of the four sites where Japan's Hidden Christians escaped to maintain their religion under the guise of being Buddhist.
Once home to 650 residents in its peak days in the 1950s, the island became uninhabited in 2001 when the last resident, a Shinto priest, left. Today, visitors can explore the remains of the abandoned village, along with the renovated house of the island’s last permanent resident, though some caution is recommended, as the area is also a playground for the wild boars, the only permanent residents of the island, along with the wild deer.
When I visited the island, there was only one other visitor, along with the tourism office representative who had accompanied us in the boat from Ojika and stayed behind at the harbor office. We were both equally fascinated and slightly unsettled by the place—a mix of emotions heightened by the island’s unusual landscape, with classic, captivating ocean views on one side and savannah-like fields on the other, with hundreds of deer roaming freely.
With few other structures on the island, the pièce de résistance is the picturesque Nokubi Church, overlooking the ocean from a gentle hill. Originally built in wood in 1882, it was later replaced with a brick structure in 1908, funded with the extremely modest means of local families.
In addition to the abandoned village, the priest's house, and Nokubi Church, there is a hiking route that leads to Okino-Kojima Shrine through dense forest. As hiking with a group is recommended to avoid unwanted wild boar encounters, that option wasn’t available to me, maybe another time.
Yes, it’s a little eerie—how could it not be? But Nozaki is an island that truly earns the overused label of uniqueness and makes for a memorable complement to any trip to Ojika.
And that wraps up the January letter. As always, if you have any questions about the islands I’ve mentioned above, feel free to reach out by email or drop a comment below. You can also find below links to my website for more detailed posts, including logistics info, about some of the destinations discussed above.6
I’ll be back in February with the monthly letter, likely focusing on the Kanazawa and Takayama areas. For monthly and annual subscribers, there will also be an additional post focusing on Hirado Island.7
Thank you so much for taking the time to read—your support truly means the world to me.
Until next time,
Burcu
Benefiting from the rare moments of victory, I recently read The Memoirs of Stockholm Sven by Nathaniel Ian Miller, one of the most delightful books I’ve read in a while. The book, which tells the story of a Swedish recluse in Svalbard, offers a blend of Dostoyevsky's darkness, Robinson Crusoe-like moments, and even hints of The Northern Lights by Howard Norman.
According to the Ministry of Environment of Japan: “The Western Area has a vertical distribution of vegetation extending from the coastal subtropical zone to the cool temperature zone of the mountain area. This vertical distribution is one of the reasons Yakushima Island was registered as a World Natural Heritage site”.
Along with Shiretoko National Park in Hokkaido.
The functionally named Kamishima, upper island, and Shimoshima, lower island.
Hiking Mount Miyanoura in Yakushima: https://bizarrejourneys.com/mt-miyanoura/ - In Praise of Road Walks: Circling Yakushima: https://bizarrejourneys.com/circling-yakushima/ My favorite Japanese islands: https://bizarrejourneys.com/japanese-islands/ Walking Goto Islands: Travel Diaries: https://www.lettersfromjapan.com/p/walking-goto-islands-day-1
While I sent a separate email with the password, just a quick reminder about a new feature for monthly and annual subscribers—a new page on the website dedicated to travel diaries, each set of diaries featured as a single post with a table of contents for easier navigation.
What wonderful adventures and practical suggestions. You keep adding to my bucket list, and I am grateful!
Thanks for your enjoyable letter. The photos are beautiful.