Okinawa Diaries: En Route to Tokashiki
Travel diaries: September 6th - hello Tokashiki, it has been a while.
Hello from high above Japan, somewhere between Tokyo and Naha. After a one-week delay caused by a typhoon and a toothache, I’m finally on my way to one of my favorite small Japanese islands—Tokashiki in Okinawa.
So, welcome to a new “travel diaries” series on Letters from Japan.1 The series began in March 2024 when I shared daily posts during my eight-day trip to the Goto Islands. While this trip will, unfortunately, be much shorter, I am eager to share my love for Tokashiki, which gets a little overlooked in favor of Okinawa`s two superstar islands—Ishigaki and Miyako.
Tokashiki, the largest of the Kerama Islands, is, in fact, very tiny. Home to just 700 residents, it is possible to walk between its two commercial centers in less than an hour.
The island is, without a doubt, also the most unpretentious and least trying summer destination I've ever visited. Despite being blessed with a stunning marine nature, which could easily put it in the league of the world`s most desirable tropical destinations, the island never tries hard to lure visitors. The modesty of its amenities sharply contrasts the mesmerizing turquoise waters surrounding the island—famously known as Kerama Blue—which unapologetically and relentlessly commands your attention.
There is not a single resort on Tokashiki Island—just one hostel and a few guesthouses that, though not run-down, show their age. And not in a trendy, retro way, but more like they haven't seen major renovations since their opening—which was likely several decades ago—kind of way. Dining options are also limited. You may only find one or two open places after 6 p.m. in the Tokashiki Port area, the main gateway to the island and its “commercial heart.” The most happening nighttime venue is an izakaya with karaoke that closes at 10 p.m. So, in Tokashiki, there are not many options, and thus, there are not many decisions to make. Pick one of the island`s two beaches for the day and go to the only place open in the evening—my dream summer getaway.
I visited Tokashiki for three summers in a row between 2018 and 2020 and got to know some of the islanders, who were exceptionally kind-hearted. When I first missed my regular late-August visit, I received a kind message asking if everything was alright. I hope they still remember me.
During all three visits, I stayed at Kerama Backpackers Hostel, which is run by a family with young kids and occupies an old house adjacent to a shrine. I’ll, however, break the habit this year and try Hotel Kanaloa, which opened in April 2024. I couldn’t resist the temptation of a private room and a new hotel. But I’ll still make sure to stop by the hostel, say hi to the owners, and confess my sin.
My day on Tokashiki will likely start at Sunny Coral, which is run by a family who moved to Tokashiki from Hiroshima. After two cups of coffee and a breakfast sandwich, I will first climb up the main road, watching out for Okinawa`s poisonous resident—snake habu—and then hike down to Tokashiku Beach following a narrower trail.
After spending the morning at Tokashiku, the more secluded one of the island`s two main beaches, I will probably hike back up to the main road and risk a minor heat stroke to walk to Aharen Beach, where I will try to get a seat on the second floor of Octopus Garden and enjoy a tuna sashimi lunch while watching the ocean. If the weather is not too grueling, I may walk to the viewpoint after lunch before returning to Tokashiku for an afternoon swim. In the evening, I will either go to the outdoor yakitori joint, which, depending on the owner’s mood, opens one summer and closes the next, or the riverside izakaya, run by a fisherman and his lovely wife, who has welcomed a baby since I last visited the island.
I will likely repeat this all over again on Sunday. That is Tokashiki life for you.
I began writing this letter on a plane and am now finishing it in a hotel room in Naha. It’s already past midnight, and I have a ferry to catch in the morning. I’ll be back soon with a second post, sharing this year’s updates from Tokashiki.
Monthly letters are available to all subscribers, but travel diaries are part of the paid features. Thank you for bearing with me during this launch with new subscription options. After the Okinawa series, I will be back to regular programming with one monthly letter for regular subscribers. You can see the other subscription options at Letters from Japan.
This looks stunning, thanks for sharing Tokashiki with us <3
The views are sooo beautiful!